Showing posts with label taking a photo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label taking a photo. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens sample photos without pp.


quoted from Helios-44 | Camerapedia | FANDOM powered by Wikia
Helios-44 is a series of standard lenses for SLR cameras, produced in Soviet Union.... Based on the lens Biotar 2 / 58,....

So every version has slight different things like shorter(or longer) minimum focus distance, different aperture blades, etc.

This technical details were only for the Helios 44-2 version.


Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens technical details:

type: Prime lens
mount type: M42
optical design: 6 elements in 4 groups
aperture range: f/2 ~ f/16
aperture blade: 8
minimum focus: 50 cm
filter thread size: 49mm
weight: 230g
length: 57mm

I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have same uv filter or hood like this lens, I can use with this lens.
And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me. That is the reason that I mostly shoot with prime lens.
So I do check those things from the technical details.


You can read more about the lens from here:



Here is comparison shots - Biotar vs Helios




Photos of the lens that I used:
Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens

Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens




Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used M42 lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee--open source software because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting with sharpening.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.


So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting.
I will do these adajustments, if necessary:
 - click the auto button in exposure tab--automatically calculate the exposure value,
 - adjust exposure value, if overall image was still dark or too bright,
 - adjust contrast(between 3 and 18) in L*a*b* adjustments tab,
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto or slightly reduce the temperature value. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.




Sample photos:

Sony A7 full frame camera with Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens:

cherry blossom at Sincheondunchi - Helios 44-2 lens
cherry blossom at Sincheondunchi - Helios 44-2 lens
* It was my flickr account photo. Same post processing and then film simulation set to Kodak Ektar 100.

at the Sincheongyo, Daegu

forsythia at Sincheondunchi, Daegu

Cosmos sulphureus






Olympus E-P3 camera with Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens:

I didn't use Rawtherapee because I like the color of Olympus Viewer 3 produced.
I did only adjust exposure value. And then adjust level in Gimp--open source software.

at the Sincheondunchi, Daegu

I think it is morning glory or ipomoea kind of flower.

at the Sincheongyo, Daegu




P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.

Friday, July 13, 2018

Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 MC M42 lens sample photos without pp.


Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 MC lens technical details:

type: Prime lens
mount type: M42
optical design: 7 elements in 7 groups
aperture range: f/2.8~f/22
aperture blade: 6
minimum focus: 25 cm
filter thread size: 55mm
weight: 210g
length: 53mm

I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have same uv filter or hood like this lens, I can use with this lens.
And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me. That is the reason that I mostly shoot with prime lens.
So I do check those things from the technical details.


You can read more about the lens from here:



Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used M42 lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee--open source software because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting with sharpening.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.


So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting.
I will do these adajustments, if necessary:
 - click the auto button in exposure tab--automatically calculate the exposure value,
 - adjust exposure value, if overall image was still dark or too bright,
 - adjust contrast(between 3 and 18) in L*a*b* adjustments tab,
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto or slightly reduce the temperature value. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.



I have two lenses. One with red MC and red letter on the feet. The other one is with green letter on the feet.
Photos of the lens that I used - Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 MC (green letter on the feet) lens:
Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 MC lens

Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 MC lens

Sample photos - Sony A7 full frame camera with Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 MC lens:

Rhododendron schlippenbachii - Pentacon 29mm's bubbly bokeh.
Pentacon 29mm's bubbly bokeh
* It was my flickr account photo. Same post processing and then film simulation set to Kodak Potra 160.

This is quite extreme bokeh, I think.
But you can also take photo like below--quite smooth bokeh:
I think it is morning glory or ipomoea kind of flower.

at the Sincheongyo, Daegu

Olympus E-P3 camera with Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 lens:
Pentacon 29mm's bubbly bokeh
I took this photo in jpg and use auto tone in Olympus Viewer 3 software.




Photos of the lens that I used - Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 (red) MC lens:
Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 red MC version lens

Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 red MC version lens


Sample photos - Sony A7 full frame camera with Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 red MC lens:

build up housing that quite long
at Taepyeong negeuri, Daegu
* It was my flickr account photo. Same post processing.

Sincheondunchi, near Dongsingyo

Sony Nex-5R camera with Pentacon 29mm f/2.8 red MC lens:


at the Sincheongyo, Daegu



P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.

Sunday, July 1, 2018

Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens sample photos without pp.


Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens technical details:

type: Prime lens
mount type: M39, M42
optical design: 4 elements in 3 groups
aperture range: f/3.5~f/16, clickless
aperture blade: 6~8
minimum focus: 65 cm
filter thread size: 33.5mm, 35.5mm (rotating)
weight: 68g, 75g
length: 30mm

The Industar-50-2 50 mm f/ 3.5 (Russian: "Индустар") is a standard lens in Zenit (Зенит) camera.
And there was a version of Zorkiy (Зоркий) rangefinder camera.
FED Industar-10 50mm f/3.5 was copy(design was borrowed) from Leitz(Leica) Elmar lens--same collapsible style.
And Industar-50-2 was copy from(based on?) Tessar 50mm f/3.5's optical scheme.


I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have same uv filter or hood like this lens, I can use with this lens.
And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me. That is the reason that I mostly shoot with prime lens.
So I do check those things from the technical details.


You can read more about the lens from here:





Here is photo of Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens with cameras:

Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens on Sony A7

Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens on Sony Nex-5R


Photos of the lens that I used.
Industar-50-2 50mm f3.5 lens
Industar-50-2 50mm f3.5 lens



This lens is very small so m42 lens to Nex(E mount) adapter is bigger like this:
Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens on m42 to nex adapter



Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used M42 lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee--open source software because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting with sharpening.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.


So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting.
I will do these adajustments, if necessary:
 - click the auto button in exposure tab--automatically calculate the exposure value,
 - adjust exposure value, if overall image was still dark or too bright,
 - adjust contrast(between 3 and 18) in L*a*b* adjustments tab,
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto or slightly reduce the temperature value. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.



Old lens probably need increase contrast value:
This is very old lens--made since 1959. So my copy was very likely 1960's.

When I took the photo with this lens, scene looks quite smog-ish style. But after increased contrast, everything looks good.
This is quite common thing for old lens--I have many old lenses and most of them were like this. And it can easily fix.


Example photo:
ISO 1250 so I did use Imaging Edge software to post process - only increased exposure value to 0.5 ev and then white balance in 'auto'.
As you can see, color wasn't that strong.

After increased contrast--value to 15 in Gimp.




Sample photos:

Sony A7 full frame camera with Industar-50-2 50mm f/3.5 lens:

near Dongsingyo, Daegu

near Dongsingyo, Daegu

Sony Nex-5R body only

at the Sincheongyo, Daegu

Elmar 9cm f/4 lens, at the Sincheongyo, Daegu







P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.

Friday, June 22, 2018

Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM lens sample photos without pp.


A few days ago, I wrote about this lens - Sigma 30mm f/1.4 Nikon mount APS-C lens on full frame camera--Sony A7 @ May 29, 2018
And I talked about second-hand price which was inexpensive. So I will quote that part:
Quite cheaper way to get the f/1.4 lens.

In Korea, secondhand Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM lens was not expensive--about $106 to $130 US dollars, especially Nikon mount. And others like Canon, Alpha mount were more--but not so much.
And secondhand Sigma 30mm f/1.4 for Sony E mount costs around $280.

Other cheap way to get the 1.4 lens is old lens like Takumar 50mm f1.4 or Nikon/Canon 50mm f1.4 which is slightly cheaper than Sigma.
But when put this lens on APS-C camera, it became 75mm lens. Because of crop factor.


According to the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM lens - Wikipedia web page, on APS-C sensor cameras, its filed of view equivalent to a 46mm lens. Or slightly more for other camera like Canon, older Sigma bodies.



Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM lens technical details:

type: Prime lens
mount type: Canon EF-S, Micro four thrids, Nikon F (DX), Pentax KAF, Sigma SA, Sony/Minolta Alpha
optical design: 7 elements in 7 group
aperture range: f/1.4~f/16
aperture blade: 8
minimum focus: 40 cm
filter thread size: 62mm
weight: 430g
length: 59mm


I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have 62mm uv filter or hood, I can use with this lens.
And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me. That is the reason that I mostly shoot with prime lens.
So I do check those things from the technical details.


You can read more about the lens from here:



Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens with cameras:

Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens on Nikon D7000
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens on Sony Nex-5R
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens on Olympus E-P3


Photos of the lens that I used.
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM for Nikon mount lens
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM for Nikon mount lens



Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used Nikon G lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee--open source software because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting with sharpening.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.


So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting.
I will do these adajustments, if necessary:
 - click the auto button in exposure tab--automatically calculate the exposure value,
 - adjust exposure value, if overall image was still dark or too bright,
 - adjust contrast(between 3 and 18) in L*a*b* adjustments tab,
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto or slightly reduce the temperature value. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.



Sample photos:

Nikon D90 with Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM for Nikon mount lens:
at the Bongeunsa (sa means Buddhist temple)


Solution for auto focus problem in Nikon DSLR camera.
If you have a Nikon D90 or D7000 and problem with auto focus, you can probably fix with adjust 'Fine tune' in lens setting.
quoted from Autofocus is useless with Nikon D7000 body? | Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM | Flickr
einsteinsmonster said:
I had the same problem with my D7000.
Works perfect on D90.
Fine tuned the lens to -8 and now it's spot on.
Fine tune + or - till your happy with it.



Nex-5R with Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM for Nikon mount lens:

at Seongnae 2 dong--Bukseongro, Daegu
It was 45mm so slightly wider than 50mm. I felt quite wider than 50mm lens.

near Dongsingyo, Daegu
near Dongsingyo, Daegu
at the Sincheongyo, Daegu






Olympus E-P3 with Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM for Nikon mount lens - Olympus E-P3 has crop factor of x2 so lens became 60mm lens.

Magpies in a tree.
near Sinseonggyo, Daegu




at the Sincheongyo, Daegu




P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.