Sunday, June 17, 2018

answer--not physically destroy hdd, for erase data from a hard disk so no one can ever recover it.


Thinking about selling used hard drives.

Recently I bought external 2.5" hard disk drive because my external 2.5" hard drivers have low on free space. Copied all the data to new hard drive from old hard drives.
Now I have number of hard drivers--external 2.5" 500GB, 750GB and a few desktop PC 3.5" hard disks that no use. So I'm thinking about to sell it.

Before I'm selling, I needed to clean up the hard disk so no one can recover my personal data. I don't much have important data though--I have a lot of piece of writings and ideas. But I don't think people will understand what those a pieces of writing is for.
I know this because some of those ideas, I already wrote in my twitter or blogs but no one seems to understand what I am saying. So I don't much care about those.
But I have been learning photography so I have tons of photos which I'd like to erase it.

So I did googling and came across this--in Quora:
How do I erase data from a hard disk so no one can ever recover it? 


Why would you like to physically destroy hard disk which you spend a lot of money for?

Quite surprise to see so many answered with physically destroy the hard drive.

I thought -
Wow...wows!
Nowadays, everyone is sooo rich that everyone suggest to physically drilling, shredding the hard disk.
I'm not rich so I had to completely erase the data before selling.


I know the simple solution without physically destroying it.

I know how software works--because I was a programmer. So I know very easy and simple way. Download some software--bigger size will be better, useless documents or anything from the internet or your not important things like Netflix movie files. And delete all your data. And then copy the downloaded software, documents and all. And kept copy it(same files over and over--make folder to more easier--Windows will make new name for it like below screenshot) until hard disk became zero-ish byte of free space.
screenshot: overwrite files for make unrecoverable

So when the recovery software or professional try to store data from my hard drive, they will only recover those useless data.
It's THAT simple to permanently erase data.
Yes, it takes time. But it perfectly works.


Yes, someone answered what I suggested--overwrite data to remove personal data.
And someone saying that forensic analyse(or something) still can find a bit of information from there. Sure. That might be true.

That's why my solution makes more sense.

Because my personal data was already replaced by thousands, thousands and thousands of files.
That means forensic analyse take more, more and more time to figure out which bit of information connected to the which part of information. It's like thousands, thousands and thousands of jigsaw puzzles to figure out.
And it will be almost impossible because a lot of pieces were missing.

Loren Forslund answered very interesting one and I think it's very good method, too:
My method is using Ubuntu disks utility to break all partitions down and formatting the drive into one “FAT” partition. Now make 2 equal partitions and format them in EXT4 writing over the drive. Now break these partitions back to one NTFS partition over writing the disk. I’m sure if you had one million dollars worth of DOD equipment and 3 months of time you may get a scrap of something, but I doubt anything useful.


People watched way too much TV shows--CSI kind of TV shows.

Especially this part:
I'm sure if you had one million dollars worth of DOD equipment and 3 months of time you may get a scrap of something, but I doubt anything useful.
 - People were watched way too much TV shows
 - and they were way too much talk about this theoretical ideas.

Let's talk about reality.
I told you that I bought a external 2.5" hard disk which has 4TB space--actual size is 3.63TB.
So I put all my old data to this new hard disk..
screenshot: my external hard disk drive's files and folders

Last time, I had a lot of software and documents from the internet. But when I started taking photos, I had to delete those files because nowadays DSLR or mirrorless camera need bigger space to backup.
And other reason is I can always go online to get those software again.  So I don't need to kept in my hard drive.

So in my case, 50% of files(153,598 / 2 = 76,799 files) were probably personal data. But each photo was like 7 to 24 mega bytes only. I have software, downloaded documents, audiobook from Librivox and games and those were far more bigger size than photos.

So even if I have 50 to 70% of files were personal data(because photos I took), 40 to 80% of space were filled with not personal data. That means 40 to 80% of 0.98 tera byte.

That means if forensic analyse find a bit of information, it will quite likely not my personal data. For example, 70% of space were not personal data means:
other not important things - 1,003.52 giga byte * 70% = 702.464 giga byte
my personal data - 1,003.52 giga byte * 30% = 301.056 giga byte
Because my personal data was only 30% chance to picked up by forensic analyse.


And there has more. I have thousands of photos but do you think all of my photos were all very important photos--which I probably use it in my blog.
Photography is my hobby so technically it wasn't very important data.

Even if so, reality is this:
How many professional photographers really use all of their photos they took, do you think?

And how many people do you think they use their hard drive only for their important data?
Even if that's the case, why do they need 1 to 4 tera bytes of hard disk?

I have important documents but most of my documents(which I kept it in text file format--smaller than Word file format.) takes only a few kilo byte.
So I'm sure that a few giga bytes of hard disk should be enough for their personal--important data.



Reality of un-delete kind of software.

How I know this? Because about 10 or 15 years ago, I tried to recover my important data from un-delete kind of software with no success.
I can see the files with so many other files. But I can't recover it because it was already half destroyed--some new files already overwritten some part of those files.

You've known this, too. Good example is 'corrupted file'. Did you recover that corrupted file?


Reality is this:
Even if that forensic analyse find a bit of byte, what can you do with that part of byte?


It was 10 or 15 years ago experience so I have to check. And found this:
Recovering Deleted Files After Formatting: Is it Possible? | Deleted File RecoveryThere are many debates regarding the possibilities of recovering deleted files among computer scientists. All evidence points to the fact that in order to recover files deleted from recycle bin, or any other part of the operating system, they must not have been written over.

In order to recover a deleted file every sector that included data for that file must be in it’s original condition. Overwriting any part of this file with new data will cause corruption.


As you can see, this professional(??) data recovery company saying things were far different than what many people answered in Quora.
Professional data recovery company saying that they can't recover if it's already written over.
But many people in Quora saying that you can recover it--because you can find a piece of information with forensic analyse(or something). So you must do physically destroy hard drive--drilling, shredding, burning and among other physical way.

See the difference.


Even if you recover the part of file, you probably can't read--because of corrupted. But what many people in Quora saying is it can read--recover it.
* If you seen CSI kind of TV show, they can always recover it, don't they?
Yes, you can recover the random data. But do you think that random data is worth a million dollars with spent a few months or a year of work?



That's why I completely agree with what Loren Forslund said:
I'm sure if you had one million dollars worth of DOD equipment and 3 months of time you may get a scrap of something, but I doubt anything useful.


Reality is extremely different than what people were saying in internet, unfortunately.
This is how people kept getting more wrong ideas.



P.S. I found permanent file delete software:
They also explain same thing--overwrite to make unrecoverable.




Tuesday, June 12, 2018

No longer work on metered network to stop Windows 10 auto--force update!


Extremely forceful auto update in Windows 10 Home edition.

- Windows 10 Pro (and Enterprise) edition can easily block the auto update with group policy setting.


I was very irritated by Windows 10 update because it kept bugging me for restart.
So I had to find how to stop Windows 10's auto-update--I did this before about two years ago.

And I found two options:
One is set on metered network in wifi setting--turn on the "Set as metered connection".
Other one is change group policy settings. But this option is available for Windows 10 Pro and Enterprise edition. Mine is Windows 10 Home edition so I can't use this option.
* About two years ago, it wasn't possible to disable Windows 10 update service but now it might possible.

And luckily, I'm using wifi to connect internet so I did use first option.
You can see the screenshot for how I set the metered network:

screenshot - set the metered network in wifi setting

So I didn't get the update for quite while. About a month ago or a few months ago, I thought I needed update Windows Defender so I did use Windows update.

After that, at first I didn't notice much about this red circle with cross mark in Windows Defender Security Centre icon.
But about a month or two months ago, it kept showing the icon in taskbar like this:
screenshot - Windows Defender Security Centre icon

And then I just realise it that suddenly my mouse--actually, I'm using wacom tablet as mouse though, sometimes stuck--not responding like 5 to 30 seconds.
I thought this is because my computer--almost 10 years old laptop computer, was quite old so that is the reason that my mouse was not responding.

But it looks like actual reason is Windows 10 kept trying to update in metered network.
screenshot - auto update in metered network
It said:
Update settings
We'll automatically download and install updates, except on metered connections (where charges may apply). In that case, we'll automatically download only those updates required to keep Windows running smoothly.

So it will automatically download and updates in metered connections, too.

screenshot - awaiting restart in metered connections


I haven't try the disable windows update service yet. I have no other choice--I have to do that to stop auto update.


You can try some of things from here:





Stuck in a Windows 10 update loop - KB4088776

When I'm writing this, I realised that my problem is not only because of that reason. Those update numbers were very familiar--KB4088776.
It kept trying to install the update and then it kept failed like this:
screenshot - couldn't finish installing updates

I think I found solution for looping update of '2018-03 Cumulative Update for Windows 10 Version 1709 for x64-based Systems (KB4088776)' from here:



I'm not sure whether it will fix the problem but there have number of possible solutions so I think I might find a way.




P.S. Additional info. wrote at September 10, 2018:
My laptop computer's wifi network driver not working time to time, if I don't do the update for Windows 10--because metered network--partly blocked update.
Very strange happening--when it happened first time, I thought my laptop computer was too old because it's 8 to 10 years old. But it kept happening again. So I did update Windows 10 and it was okay. But three(or two?) month later it happened again. And just a few days--or a week ago, Windows 10 start showing warning of update. Very similar behaviour like first time.
Now I'm trying to update Windows 10 again. And I will write it again, whether wifi-issue was gone or not.

Additional info. wrote at September 14, 2018:
My guess was right. After update Windows 10, I am not getting wifi-network issues anymore.
So if I don't do Windows 10 update, I can't use internet.

Friday, June 8, 2018

Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f/1.8 MC lens sample photos without pp.

Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f/1.8 MC lens technical details:

type: Prime lens
mount type: M42
optical design: 6 elements in 5 group
aperture range: f/1.8~f/22
aperture blade: 6
minimum focus: 35 cm
filter thread size: 49mm
weight: 250g
length: 43mm

I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have 49mm uv filter or hood, I can use with this lens.
And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me. That is the reason that I mostly shoot with prime lens.
So I do check those things from the technical details.


You can read more about the lens from here:




Photos of the lens that I used.

Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f/1.8 red MC lens

Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f/1.8 red MC lens



Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used M42 lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee--open source software because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting with sharpening.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.

So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting.
I will do these adjustments, if necessary:
 - click the auto button in exposure tab--automatically calculate the exposure value,
 - adjust exposure value, if overall image was still dark or too bright,
 - adjust contrast(between 3 and 18) in L*a*b* adjustments tab,
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto or slightly reduce the temperature value. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.



Sample photos:

Sony A7 with Pancolar 50mm f/1.8:

Cherry blossom at Hanja, Cheongdo

Bokeh(?) shot
* It was not properly focused and some parts were overexposured--this is really small flower so little breeze make photo shake. I did include it for the bokeh--out of focus area.


at the Sincheongyo - Korean word gyo means bridge
When I used Rawtherapee with this photo's raw file, it came out too dark. So I did use Sony's Imaging Edge software and change the only white balance to auto. And then rotate a bit and adjust levels with Gimp--open source software.


Self-portrait through mirror
I should cut some useless and distracting part--left and right side. But this is more about finding out lens capabilities. So I will just leave it that.
I did use Sony's Imaging Edge software--increase exposure value to 0.33 ev(1 stop or 1 click) and then creative style to portrait.


Rapeseed




Olympus E-P3 with Pancolar 50mm f/1.8 - Olympus E-P3 has crop factor of x2 so lens became 100mm lens--so it's more like a medium telephoto lens.
Only one time I did take photo with Olympus E-P3 because I didn't expect this lens as medium telephoto lens. And I couldn't familiarise with colour that produce.

But this bokeh was interesting so I included it here.

Bokeh shot(?)
at the Sincheongyo
This photo was taken at same place as above--with Sony A7. So you can see how much it cropped.

When I took those photos, I took the shot in jpg, not raw file. And I did use Olympus Viewer software with Auto Tone Correction function--not any other modification.




P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Nikon 24mm f/2.8 AI-S Nikkor lens sample photos.

Nikon Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 Ai-s lens technical details:

format: 35mm SLR
type: Prime lens

mount type: Nikon F mount
optical design: 9 elements in 9 group
aperture range: f/2.8~f/22
aperture blade: 7
minimum focus: 30 cm
filter thread size: 52mm
weight: 275g
length: 45.7mm

I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have 52mm uv filter or hood, I can use with this lens.
And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me. That is the reason that I mostly shoot with prime lens.
So I do check those things from the technical details.


You can read more about the lens from here:



About the lens evaluation:

I'm not that much good at judging about the lens. But I read quite a lot about the lens from the web.
And quite number of times, I'm finding very strange remark--like this one.

I can't say I really like what Nikon 24mm f2.8 ais produce. And I probably can say I really don't like the corner or edge area--but not all the photos I took. So sometimes or many times, it was quite okay with those corner or edge area.
So if some people saying Nikon 24mm f2.8 ais was bad--because she or he doesn't like what Nikon 24mm f2.8 produce, I probably can agree.

But problem is when some people trying to prove Nikon 24mm f2.8 ais lens were terrible lens--with compare the extremely expensive--excellent lens.
Some people compare this lens with Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens--I don't know much about zoom lens but I think this is one of best zoom lens that Nikon produced, or with Nikon 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5G lens.
Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 costs about $1,800. And Nikon 18-35mm costs about $750.

Nikon 24mm f2.8 ais is old lens so compare with market price wasn't fair. But newer version of this lens is Nikon 24mm f2.4d so it costs $339. You can probably buy Nikon 24mm f2.8 ais lens for about $120 to $200.
Many people were trying to compare with these huge different price tag--$1,800 lens to compare with far less than $339 lens.
Does it make sense to you?

At least, they don't try to compare with Nikon 14-24mm f2.8 lens which quite number of people refer to one of best wide angle zoom lens--not only Nikon lens, among other brand lens like Canon.


This lens can't be really good like Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens or probably like Nikon 28mm f/2.8 Ai-S lens. But I don't think it is worse than 20mm f/2.8d lens--that also quite hard to judge because 20mm was wider than 24mm lens so corner wasn't worse than 24mm.

Nikon 24mm f/2.8 ais probably wasn't great lens like Nikon 50mm f/1.8 or Nikon 28mm f/2.8 Ai-S(minimum focus to 0.2 meter version). But I think it is quite good lens or at least, it's okay lens--not everyone, of course. And many people include me was slightly disappointed with corner--quite soft.
So if you use with crop body, I think you probably won't disappoint--people have different taste of things so some people might disappoint though.


Photos of the lens that I used.
Nikon Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 Ai-s lens

Nikon Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 Ai-s lens



Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used Nikon lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo. Some photos were taken with Nikon D7000 which can recorded aperture number.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert Raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting with sharpening.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.

So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting.
I will do these adajustments, if necessary:
 - click the auto button in exposure tab--automatically calculate the exposure value,
 - adjust exposure value, if overall image was still dark or too bright,
 - adjust contrast(between 3 and 18) in L*a*b* adjustments tab,
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.



Sample photos:

Nikon D7000 with Nikon 24mm f2.8 lens - Nikon D7000 has crop factor of x1.5 so this lens became 36mm lens.

at the Dongdaemun design plaza, Seoul

at the Guinsa Buddhist temple, Danyang
I was trying to focus center part but it came out like that. But you can see how out of focus part looks like--Nikon D7000 has crop factor of x1.5 so Nikon 24mm became 36mm.
With crop body, it is still useful for close up--or macro shot.

Winter in Guinsa - Korean 'sa' means Buddhist temple.
Winter in Guinsa - Korean 'sa' means Buddhist temple. - from my flickr account.


at the Sincheongyo, Daegu
As you can see from the photo, it was mixture of quite bad pollution, smog and not very bright winter sun light.


Olympus E-P3 with Nikon 24mm f2.8 lens - Olympus E-P3 has crop factor of x2 so this is lens became 48mm lens--not wide at all.

at Sincheongyo, Daegu

at Hanja, Cheongdo
P.S. I forgot to mention that this photo was post-processed with Olympus Viewer 3 program. Because I felt that it has some noise--ISO 200 so I didn't use Rawtherapee.



This photo was cropped out from previous photo. I did use auto-white balance function in Gimp--open source software. For making clear the leaves and water droplets.


Sony A7 with Nikon 24mm f2.8 lens:

at Sincheongyo, Daegu

near Chilseongsijang, Daegu
This is handheld-HDR shot which automatically generate from Sony A7--HDR paiting in Picture effect menu. And it took three shots to make one HDR photo.
That is the reason why you can see left side of photos with ghost--halo of cars.
I did include this photo because this photo shows Nikon 24mm f2.8's capability--Sony A7 wasn't crop body like above's.



Three photos were taken at same spot--Sincheongyo. Olympus E-P3's was slight different angle though.
So you can compare the full frame camera with crop body camera--crop factor of x1.5 and x2.



with tilt adapter:

I have a tilt adapter which can capture diorama style photo.
I don't know much about this diorama effect but I'm just showing what it will do with this adapter.

Nikon 24mm f/2.8 with tilt Nikon-Nex adapter
This is Nikon 24mm f/2.8 lens with tilt Nikon to Sony e mount adapter.


snowing town, Daegu

at Sincheon-dunchi, Daegu



P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.