Monday, June 4, 2018

Olympus Zuiko Auto-T 200mm f/4 lens sample photos.

Olympus OM-System Zuiko Auto-T 200mm f/4 lens technical details:

format: 35mm SLR
type: Prime lens
manufactured: late 1970s ~ 1980s

mount type: Olympus OM
optical design: 5 elements in 4 group
aperture range: f/4~f/32
aperture blade: 8
minimum focus: 2.5 m
filter thread size: 55mm
weight: 515g
length: 127mm
lens coating: Multi coating
Built-in lens hood


I don't much care about this technical details of lens. But sometimes it can be useful.
For example, if I already have 55mm uv filter or hood, I can use with this lens. And I'm walking long hours when I do photo-walks. So if lens wasn't heavy, it was very suitable for me.
So I do check those things from that technical details.

You can read more about the lens from here:


Photos of the lens that I used.
Olympus Zuiko Auto-T 200mm f/4

Olympus Zuiko Auto-T 200mm f/4


Technical notes:

These photos were all taken with handheld and I used Olympus OM lens to Sony E mount or Micro four thirds adapter so I have no idea about aperture number for the photo.

When I am taking photos, I do use Raw file format. So I need to convert Raw file to jpg file and during that time, I do some post-processing--this is kind of darkroom process in developing film.
And when I do this, I don't use any default setting from Rawtherapee because there has some image modification settings like sharpening, micro-contrast and among other things.
I don't use Adobe Photoshop but this also has same kind of default setting.
This isn't important for photography. But this is about the lens--what kind of photo I can take with this lens. So sharpening won't help to know about the lens.

So when I do use Rawtherapee, I removed all the default setting and set to these - contrast: 18, saturation: 3, lightness: 2 in exposure group.
I will do this, if necessary:
 - increase exposure value, if overall image was dark.
 - if there have some areas were too dark or too bright which makes me feel unbalance the overall look, adjust the shadow/highlight value.
 - Sometimes, white balance set to auto. Because Sony A7's white balance value was quite terrible when I do use other brand lens--not Sony E mount lens.


My photos aren't that great so you can check out other people's sample photos:



Sample photos:
I didn't record aperture value so I can't be sure.
But it probably between f/4 to f/5.6. Because judging by the time--late afternoon and I tried to make stand out only birds--I mean other parts to make bokeh so it should be wide open-ish aperture.


Olympus E-P3 with Olympus 200mm f/4:
Below two photos were captured at ISO 500. So those noises were made by Olympus E-P3.

Mallard - Olympus E-P3 with Olympus 200mm f/4
I thought those wave's colors were bit weird but I choose to include it here. Because those thick-ish color expresses about the Olympus(camera and lens)'s style.

Grey heron - Olympus E-P3 with Olympus 200mm f/4

If compare the photos below and above, Olympus E-P3 photos' birds are more bigger.
Olympus E-P3's crop factor is x2 so Olympus 200mm became 400mm which can help to make more close to the subject.
This is one of reason that crop body can be suitable for wildlife photography.


Sony A7 with Olympus 200mm f/4:

Eurasian skylark - Sony A7 with Olympus 200mm f/4
Crop the image from above--Eurasian skylark.
Eurasian skylark - Sony A7 with Olympus 200mm f/4

Below two photos were captured at ISO 2500. So those noises were made by Sony A7.

Wild duck - Sony A7 with Olympus 200mm f/4

Winter leaves - Sony A7 with Olympus 200mm f/4

Grey heron - Sony A7 with Olympus 200mm f/4



P.S. If you'd like to read in Korean, you can read it from here--this is my Korean blog.

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